Typically, the arts and entertainment staff tries to review restaurants and events that are relatively close in distance to UTSA. I can appreciate the idea of saving a bit of gas money; however, there exists an exquisite culinary world within San Antonio that merits mention and makes any drive worth the extra money.
I had always heard great things about the leaning establishment known as Liberty Bar, but I never had an opportunity to try it out. I decided to check it out for myself last Sunday.
The concept of marrying different flavors, styles or regions of cooking together isn’t new (it’s called fusion) and American chefs have been at it for a while now. The Liberty Bar typifies this trend and has an eclectic menu that the staff describes as “American, with a Mexican twist.” It is a far, far, far cry from Tex-Mex.
The Liberty Bar’s claim to fame is its leaning building and fresh food. All menu items are “homemade” and rather inexpensive considering the labor costs associated with fresh-food concept restaurants, $15-$26 an entrée. They are meticulous with the selection of their ingredients, and the taste reflects their adventurous spirit. However, as with all adventures the outcome can produce varying results.
Calamares Fritos Con Salsa Veracruzana ($10.75)
An appetizer of six to eight ounces of calamari fried in a corn meal batter and served with a side of veracruz sauce. The flavor profile of this appetizer is uniquely Texan, and evocative of old cowboys frying catfish in cornmeal. However, as much as I enjoy the concept of this particular appetizer, I question the blending of the textures and flavors; the cornmeal seemingly overpowers the calamari in both texture and flavor.
The veracruz sauce is also a bit of an oddity. It fails to marry the concept of the old Texas fish fry with a bit of Old Mexico. The sauce is slightly acidic and finishes with light hints of cumin. The acid and fresh flavors from a lime based pico de gallo might have been the way to go with complementing this dish.
Roasted Leg of Lamb Sandwich with Aïoli Morita ($10.50)
Thick slices of lamb are layered in between toasted sourdough bread and served with an aïoli morita (a mayonnaise-like sauce emulsified with chipotle power) and potato salad. I really like the flavors of this sandwich; the pairing between the lamb and the aïoli was absolutely perfect. The potato salad was a nice touch, but it made an already heavy meal even heavier.
As nice as the flavors were in the sandwich, the lamb had been improperly prepared and sliced. The slices of lamb had a few strands of connective tissue and made the lamb a bit tough to eat. Also, the lamb had been sliced too thickly and “with the grain” of the meat rather than “against the grain” further adding to its tough texture.
Tres Leches Cake ($5.95)
Wow, this cake was perfect. As far as tres leches cakes go, it contained the perfect amount of moisture and was well balanced in its sweetness. The crumb was perfect, and the cake actually melted in your mouth as you ate it, crumb by crumb. It is a must have. I recommend calling the restaurant ahead of time to make sure they are serving it (the menu changes almost daily).
The concept of the Liberty Bar really excites me, and even though my first meal wasn’t spectacular, I plan on going again. The atmosphere is relaxing in a way you would find a bed and breakfast relaxing, and the staff is both helpful and knowledgeable about the menu. Besides, if all else fails, there’s always the bar.
The Liberty Bar is tucked away at 328 East Josephine, between Avenue A and Karnes street (near the Pearl Brewery). It’s a little difficult to find if you’re new to the Broadway area and I suggest you map it out prior to leaving. For more information about restaurant hours, menu items or why the building leans check out their Web site at www.liberty-bar.com .
Liberty Bar takes liberties with their cuisine
Published: Wednesday, April 29, 2009
Updated: Tuesday, June 23, 2009




Be the first to comment on this article! Log in to Comment
You must be logged in to comment on an article. Not already a member? Register now